Last Updated on October 9, 2024
“Can you hear it?” I asked my wife Vivien, as we stood in the ancient amphitheater overlooking the old Greek port of Limenas. We could almost hear the crowd’s roar, their cheers echoing off the stone as gladiators fought for honor beneath the blazing sun.
With its recently restored marble seating and stage, this outdoor theatre was a stunning relic from the 3rd or 4th century BC. The late afternoon breeze rustled the towering pines around us. The sun sparkled on the azure waters below and we were instantly immersed in the vibrant history of Thassos Island.
This northernmost island in the Aegean Sea is often called the Emerald Isle due to its verdant landscape of dense pine forests, olive groves and vineyards tumbling down from the central mountains to the waters. Thassos is a favorite holiday destination for Greeks and European travelers seeking an island escape away from other Greek destinations swarmed by crowds of international visitors.
Thassos is just 10 miles off the coast of Kavala, our most recent stop in a two-week self-driving exploration of northern Greece. Well-organized ferry services regularly leave Keramoti Port on the mainland. In less than 45 minutes, we drove our hire car off one of the vehicular ferries at Limenas, the island’s capital.
Makryammos Bungalows
Our resort a few miles from Limenas town is situated on long, crescent-shaped, picture-perfect Makryammos Beach. This holiday haven occupies the hillside overlooking the beach. Accommodations include one-story charming stone bungalows built in clusters that cascade down the treed and lawned slope.
Rosemary hedged paths and stone stairways encourage guests to use their feet to move around the expansive, yet intimate feeling resort. Chauffeured electric golf carts are available for those with mobility issues. All the resort facilities, from guest services to dining and recreational facilities, were conveniently located along the beachfront.
Our Hillside Double Room with its neutral tones, white marble tiles, and rough stone feature walls was both stylish and incredibly comfortable. The room’s courtyard provided both garden and ocean views. It became our go-to spot for morning coffee from the in-room espresso machine or late afternoon refreshments.
The resort’s crowning jewel is its Blue Flag beach with a white sandy bottom and stunning translucent waters inviting guests to relax on sun loungers or get active by trying your hand at sailing, kayaking or stand-up paddle boarding. Sunsets here paint the sky in an impressive kaleidoscope of color.
Other recreational facilities include a large swimming pool, tennis and basketball courts, beach volleyball and a game room. The Kids Club seemed to be a big hit, while feeding the resort’s corralled deer is a must-do for many guests, large and small. Makryammos Spa offers a comprehensive selection of beauty, therapeutic and rejuvenating treatments.
Dining at Makryammos
The meals in Dioskouri Restaurant were outstanding. The Greek breakfast? We say, “Lucky Greeks!”
Both breakfast and dinner featured extensive buffets with traditional dishes and other favorites, and the seafood barbecue one evening was unforgettable. Dining is available in air-conditioned indoors or on outside terraces overlooking the beach under a grapevine canopy.
Not all of the resort’s bars and restaurants were open for our early-in-the-season visit. Four other outlets, including Sirens Tavern, perched on the headland, with traditional Greek and Mediterranean fare, were being readied for the summer season.
For us, Makryammos was the kind of resort you never want to leave – whether on the water, lazing around beachside, enjoying a massage or savoring the fantastic food. We could have easily stayed a week or more indulging in the resort’s many abundant offerings. As a couple, it had everything we needed; from our observation, solo travelers and families with toddlers to teens seemed equally satisfied.
Exploring Limenas
Charming Limenas quickly hooked us in. It’s perfect for a leisurely stroll with tempting souvenir and gift shops brimming with local delights – honey, olive oil, soaps, nuts and handmade crafts, all beautifully displayed. Friends tipped us off about Tavernaki, a restaurant serving traditional Greek dishes we’d never tried before. The grilled stuffed squid was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the Tavernaki salad with raisins and walnuts was a fantastic accompaniment.
Then there was Stamatis Patisserie where the cakes were irresistible and the coffee didn’t disappoint. Here, we discovered their to-die-for foil-wrapped chocolates filled with caramel, nuts and other goodies. All were made in-house, as were the traditional biscuits, pastries and cakes.
Limenas has more to offer than sweets, traditional dining and shops. Along with the picture-book old port awaiting exploration, the archaeological museum tells of the island’s past. A short walk above the settlement, you can explore the remnants of ancient ruins, including temples and sanctuaries, an odeum, an Acropolis, and the amphitheater which hosts summer performances.
Getting Around Thassos Island
A car is ideal for exploring, as the island’s 70-mile ring road is dotted with spectacular beaches and rocky headlands. Traditional mountain villages like Panagia, Theologos and the Monastery of Archaggelou also await exploration.
Whether staying put in Makryammos or venturing out, Thassos has plenty to offer visitors.
