Last Updated on September 27, 2024
“More rubble and rocks,” she sighed, taking in the vast Philippi Archeological Site. But as my wife Vivien and I stood on the ancient cobblestones of the Via Egnatia, it hit me. This 700-mile Roman superhighway, dating back over two thousand years, once linked Turkey’s Bosphorus Strait to Albania’s Adriatic shoreline. This trade and communication route has carried armies, merchant caravans and even the Apostle Paul.
Just ten miles south of Philippi and two hours east of Thessaloniki sits Kavala. Clinging to Mt. Symvolo’s foothills, the port city rises amphitheatrically from the Aegean. It sits at the crossroads between East and West in northern Greece’s Thrace region.
Known as the Blue City, thanks to its outlook on the Aegean’s azure and turquoise waters, Kavala is all about unexpected blends: history and culture, architectural landmarks of the vibrant old town, organized beaches, natural treasures and great food.
Lucy Hotel
Continuing our northern Greece road tripping, we had three days to explore Kavala. Our base was the oceanfront Lucy Hotel on the city’s western side with easy access to the old town and the surrounding region. Onsite parking for our rental car sealed the deal.
Our room, with two balconies overlooking Kalamitsa Beach, was spacious and well-designed with ample storage and comfy lounging space. With a black and silver color scheme, the bathroom also provided a luxurious long bathtub.
Breakfast at Anatoli Restaurant offered panoramic ocean views, and the buffet spread was a feast. From fresh and preserved fruit to house-made bougatsa (traditional Greek custard pie), freshly baked bread, local honey, delicious hot dishes, and a tempting array of sweet treats, it was hard to resist loading our plates.
The North 40° 55 a la carte restaurant showcases Greek and Mediterranean cuisine focusing on seasonal specialties, while the cozy Gran Turismo Bar offers an extensive range of wines and spirits, as well as light meals.
Lucy’s swimming pool and expansive sun deck also sports a pool bar serving light refreshments. For those looking to unwind, Lucy Spa offers massage and beauty treatments and an indoor pool, steam and sauna rooms, perfect for reinvigorating before your next adventure. Some hotel facilities are open only in summer.
Exploring Kavala
The Panagia peninsula, overlooking the old town, is best explored on foot. With outstanding panoramic views, the medieval Acropolis (fortress), was built in the early 15th century and last utilized by German occupiers during World War II.
With its stunning 18th-century Ottoman architecture, Mohammed Ali’s Residence can be visited, but check opening hours. And no, we are not talking about the boxer. Ali was born in Kavala and, as an Ottoman military commander, became the founder of modern Egypt.
Halil Bay Mosque, used for exhibitions and events today, showcases the remains of the three-aisled early Christian Byzantine churches. A steep staircase connects Panagia to the lighthouse on the waterfront.
The imposing Kamares Aqueduct, which runs right through the old town, was built around 1520 and supplied water to the city until the early 20th century. Nearby, the Holy Church of Saint Nicholas has a stunning mosaic monument commemorating Apostle Paul’s arrival in Kavala.
Kiprou Street has many fine examples of neoclassical buildings, including City Hall. Wander the surrounding neighborhoods to see beautiful houses with flower-filled courtyards, the Great Club of Kavala and the Tobacco Museum. Or stop by a waterfront taverna for a tasty bite.
Kavala also boasts a lively cultural scene with events showcasing music, local traditions and artistic flair. The highly acclaimed Philippi Festival, held from July to September, is Greece’s second longest-running festival.
Day Trips from Kavala
Delve into history at the UNESCO-listed Philippi Archeological Site. We could picture the lively city as we wandered through the ruins, guided by a few interpretative signs. A knowledgeable guide, however, would make the experience truly come alive. The adjoining Archeological Museum is packed with artifacts and static information, offering a deeper insight into this ancient city.
Just a mile from Philippi is the enchanting Baptistery of Saint Lydia, where on the Zigaktis riverbank, the Apostle Paul baptized the first European convert. Built in Saint Lydia’s honor, we marveled at the marble baptismal font and stunning ceiling depictions. The intricate floor mosaic, mapping the Apostle Paul’s journey across Greece, captivated us – realizing we’d unknowingly followed in his footsteps.
Just an hour north of Kavala, Drama is home to some of this region’s best winemakers. We visited Château Nico Lazaridi, a three-generation family-run vineyard producing outstanding fine wines. Their iconic red and white Magic Mountain labels get an artistic yearly makeover. Each label begins as a commissioned painting and transforms into the wine’s label. All these original artworks are proudly displayed in the vineyard’s Art Gallery. Appointments for vineyard visits are a must.
Our three days in Kavala flew by, with plenty more to explore. While some attractions are open only in the summer, the city and region were a delightful surprise. Lucy Hotel proved to be a good base for such explorations.
