Last Updated on October 26, 2025
Planning a European vacation? Consider the lesser-known treasure of Riga, Latvia.
The national population of this region is fewer than two million, one-third who live in the charming historic capital city of Riga. There, timeless traditions and modern amenities mesh seamlessly, and a tragic past gives way to a future filled with freedom and endless possibilities.
Most of Latvia’s history is one of occupation. Denmark, Sweden, and Czarist Russia ruled in turn until Latvia gained its independence in 1918, following World War I. That independence was short lived until Nazis marched into the tiny country in 1941 bringing unspeakable destruction and suffering.
Fifty years under the heavy boot of the Soviet Union followed. In 1991, the Iron Curtain collapsed, and Latvians once more gained independence. Latvians have been celebrating their freedom ever since.
My husband and I had the pleasure of visiting enchanting Riga, and highly recommend you do the same before the rest of the world catches on to this treasure. We’re more than happy to share our suggestions for a three-day stay. There is no set itinerary, only a list of possibilities depending on your interests and level of activity. I do however, recommend beginning your visit with a walking tour, delving into Riga’s story, and providing an excellent overview of the city and its offerings.
Exploring Old Town
Vecriga, Riga’s Old Town, is located on the right bank of the Daugava River. You can spend hours meandering the cobblestone streets of this energetic UNESCO World Heritage Site, marveling at the colorful architecture, exploring medieval churches, and popping into shops and cafes. Here are highlights.
Town Hall Square
This plaza is popular with locals and tourists and is always busy. With its historic buildings, some of which have been reconstructed since World War II bombs destroyed two-thirds of Vecriga, and vibrant atmosphere, there is much to see and do.
The square is the site of Riga’s main Christmas Market. Look for a stone marker and a stylized Christmas tree noting the spot where the Brotherhood of Blackheads erected what is believed to have been the world’s first decorated Christmas tree in 1510.
House of the Blackheads
Located in Town Hall Square, the ornately decorated House of the Blackheads beckons you to enter. Constructed in the 1300s for an association of unmarried merchants and ship-owners, the building served as a meeting place for business and trade in Riga.
In 1941, a German bomb destroyed the building, but careful reconstruction brought it back to its former grandeur. You can learn about the history of the Blackheads during a building tour.
Note the original vaults in the basement that survived the bombing and its stunning collection of antique silver.
The Cat House
This photogenic structure is medieval-inspired Art Nouveau. A wealthy Latvian merchant commissioned the house, and it derives its named for the two copper cats on the corner turrets. Originally, the cats were positioned with their rear ends facing Riga’s House of the Great Guild and a bank as the owner’s response to not being allowed to join the mostly German guild. The cats now face outward, since the offending buildings are long gone.
Museums of Riga
Not everyone enjoys spending time wandering around a museum, but for those who do, Riga is a museum-lover’s paradise. Below are three of the city’s finest. Two will break your heart and make you think, and one is sure to make you smile.
Museum Of the Occupation
The Museum of the Occupation documents in vivid detail the story of life in Latvia under the boot of the Russian Empire prior to World War I, the horrors of Nazi occupation during World War II, and the 50 years under the brutality of Soviet rule that followed. First-hand accounts of the deportation and murder of Jews by the Nazis, Soviet persecution of Latvian dissidents, and deportations to Siberia and the years of hardship bear witness to the evil of the occupiers.
You can take a self-guided tour of the museum, but I recommend upgrading to the guided tour, well worth the extra charge. For another unvarnished historical experience, you can also visit the former KGB building with the original intact prison cells where the stark reality of KGB Operations is laid bare.
Riga Ghetto and Latvia Holocaust Museum
Riga’s pre-World War II Jewish community made up approximately 10 percent of the city’s population, most of which fell victim to the Holocaust. The Riga Ghetto and Latvia Holocaust Museum powerfully chronicles Riga’s Jewish community’s destruction during World War II. Interactive exhibits present haunting images of the establishment of the ghetto, daily life under the Nazis, and the tragic events that followed.
Riga Motor Museum
The Riga Motor Museum is the place to go if you have a passion for classic cars. There you’ll find Soviet Era vehicles from Volga, Moskvich, and Zigouli.
You can gape at Josef Stalin’s armored car or a town car that once belonged to Leonid Brezhnev, courtesy of U.S. President Richard Nixon. A replica of the Auto Union Racing Car Type D, built by the company that would become Audi, a Jaguar Mk. 2, a Rolls-Royce Silver Wraith, and a Mercedes-Benz 220 are also on display.
Free Riga Options
When the Riga weather is fine, you’ll want to be outdoors. Here are a few sites to see under the Latvian sun, and the best part is that they’re all free to enjoy.
Three Brothers
Located at 17, 19 and 21 Mazā Pils Street, the oldest row of houses in Riga, known as The Three Brothers, make for a long look and some interesting photos. No. 17 is the oldest and a mix of Gothic and Renaissance designs. No. 19 is painted yellow, dating back to the mid-17th century and blends Renaissance with Dutch Mannerist. The third brother, No. 2, is Baroque from the end of the 17th century.
Today they house the State Inspection for Heritage Protection and the Latvian Museum of Architecture.
The Freedom Monument
This beloved symbol of Latvia’s struggle for freedom has been the iconic central landmark in Riga since 1935. The imposing memorial stands nearly 150 feet in height and is made of red granite and copper. A liberty sculpture holding three golden stars crowns the monument.
A site for official remembrance ceremonies as well as a popular gathering place, The Freedom Monument is a must-see in Riga.
Bastejkalna Park
The delightful park around the Freedom Monument is an ideal location for resting your feet or taking a leisurely stroll. You can watch the sun set from a vantage spot on the hill, breathe in the floral-scented air, and commune with the ducks, swans, and beavers.
Art Nouveau Architecture
Riga is a living Art Nouveau treasure chest with more than 800 structures, a third dating back to the early 1800s. This architectural style can be found throughout the city, but the best camera candy is along Alberta Iela Street. This is the largest collection of Art Nouveau architecture in the world.
Town Musicians of Bremen
Skārņu Street is the site of the sculpture representing the Brothers Grimm fairytale, the “Town Musicians of Bremen.” The city of Bremen, Germany gifted the sculpture featuring a donkey, dog, cat, and rooster stacked vertically, to Riga in 1990. The story goes that if you touch each animal’s face in sequence, you will have good luck. I barely managed to touch the dog, so my luck will have to come from elsewhere.
Where to Eat in Riga
Riga’s food scene may not be as clearly defined as many European capitals, but there’s no shortage of good things to eat. From fine dining to cafeteria-style eateries and quaint cafes, you’ll find plenty of options to make your taste buds dance.
Riga Central Market
Part of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Riga Central Market is one of the largest and most visited markets in Eastern Europe. Located in four repurposed German zeppelin hangars, you can wander endlessly through displays of fresh fish and meat, tempting produce, luscious baked goods, and more.
Step out of your comfort zone and try smoked eel, an interesting looking dessert, or a food whose name you can’t begin to pronounce. If you want to sample traditional Latvian food, treat yourself to a smoked fish sandwich on dark bread. It’s like nothing you’ve ever tasted before.
Displays of fresh fruit and vegetables combine to create a riot of vibrant colors; mouthwatering aromas waft from stalls and cafes, and sounds of chatter and laughter surround you. This market is a true feast for the senses, and it’s easy to spend hours drinking it in.
Lido
For those on a budget, this chain of cafeterias is ideal. You’ll find a selection of tasty options without breaking the bank, and they’re conveniently scattered throughout the city.
We enjoyed a couple of meals there and were surprised at the variety and quality of the food. The portions were large, so my husband and I did some sharing. Although the vegetables were on the verge of being overcooked, the rest of our food was flavorful and cooked to perfection. The beer was mediocre, but the pear cider was delightfully fruity without being too sweet.
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs
This underground restaurant serves traditional Eastern European food, such as boiled herring and potatoes, potato pancakes, pork dishes, hot and cold borscht, dark rye bread, and an impressive selection of beer
Although the food sounded amazing, it wasn’t what drew us to this Old Town restaurant. It was Wednesday, and we learned from our walking tour guide that traditional dancing took place every Wednesday evening here.
The weekly event is so popular, we had to find somewhere else to eat since we didn’t have reservations.
The room was packed, but watching the group of young Latvians performing their lively traditional dances with expressions of pure joy on their faces was absolutely worth having to stand.
Where to Stay
Riga has a wide selection of accommodations. From hostels to high end hotels and everything in between, there are options to fit any list of must-haves or budget considerations.
If you want to stay in Old Town, consider Amber Rooms Hostel, Riga Augustine Hotel, or Monte Kristo.
We stayed at Ibis Riga Center, a 10-minute walk from Old Town and within easy walking distance to the Riga Central Market, as well as the railway and bus stations and city public transportation.
Ibis is a European chain of budget hotels offering no-frills accommodations at an affordable price. We have stayed at several, and found the rooms consistently clean, with good showers, comfortable beds, and reliable WiFi.
Riga is a city worth more than a passing thought. The people are friendly, the city is walkable, you don’t need a car, and the area is bursting with things to see, do and learn. If Riga isn’t on your travel wish list, it should be.
