Last Updated on September 11, 2024
Victoria Hislop’s gripping novel The Thread, brought to life some of Thessaloniki’s tumultuous history, igniting my wife Vivien’s and my passion to explore northern Greece for our Spring 2024 vacation.
Our research also introduced us to neighbouring Halkidiki, just 40 miles east of Thessaloniki. A lesser-known alternative to the country’s famous islands, Halkidiki offers dramatic coastlines, sparkling turquoise waters, sun-kissed beaches, charming villages, historic monasteries and fabulous fresh Greek food.
Halkidiki, where Greeks and in-the-know Europeans vacation, resembles a hand with three fingers extended downward. These fingers represent the striking peninsulas of Kassandra, Sithonia, and Mount Athos, each with a unique allure. From the scenic mountains in the north to 340 miles of pristine coastline, this region boasts 87 internationally certified clean and safe Blue Flag beaches.
Getting There and Getting Around
Renting a car is highly recommended, as public transport is limited. My wife and I rented a vehicle from Thessaloniki Airport. The 35-mile trip south to the start of the Kassandra peninsula was on great roads with billowing wheat fields, olive groves, vineyards and Aegean Sea glimpses as our rolling panorama.
Blue Bay Hotel Halkidiki
We spent three nights at Blue Bay Hotel, a short walk from Afytos, arguably Kassandra’s most charming village. The resort’s prime location made for an ideal base to explore the Kassandra peninsula.
Perched on a hillside, the resort offers breathtaking Aegean Sea (Toroneos Gulf) views from most rooms. Our Superior Double Room with Side Sea View had everything we needed: ample storage, a spacious bathroom stocked with the fabulous Greek Apivita toiletries, a fridge, coffee machine and a private balcony overlooking the main pool. The newly renovated interiors boasted natural tones and elegant furnishings, blending harmoniously with the vibrant blue of the sea and sky.
The hotel provides two inviting swimming pools with plenty of salas and loungers. Descend the hillside stairs and a beach club, and those forever inviting crystal-clear waters await.
The Games Room, complete with table games and a snooker table is great for family fun. The Fitness Room was well-equipped, and group classes were available during peak season.
The Wellness Center, with its soothing muted tones was a standout. My Deep Tissue Massage, expertly delivered, significantly eased my remnant pre-holiday tension. The Center also offers beauty treatments and packages for long-stay guests.
Service at the hotel was warm and friendly, evidenced by the many repeat guests, including a couple who’ve been coming here for 24 years. While the hotel welcomes children, it’s more of an adult-oriented retreat.
Eat at Blue Bay Restaurants and Bar
Our booking provided ‘half board,’ meaning breakfast and dinner were included in the room arrangements. Half and even full board make perfect sense for travelers planning to stay for an extended period, which is the case for many Halkidiki visitors. It was not an arrangement we were used to, and we were a little wary as hotel buffets can range from average to outstanding. Thankfully, Blue Bay’s creative chefs crafted diverse, scrumptious dishes that defied our expectations at every meal.
The Main Restaurant, with stunning ocean views of the Toroneos Gulf, hosted breakfast and dinner. Breakfast was a feast with succulent fruits, crisp cereals, Greek and international cheeses and cold cuts, salads, vegetables and cooked dishes. Made-to-order entrees added a personal touch, and Vivien enjoyed creating her tea blend.
Dinner was a daily adventure, with themes ranging from Greek to Asian. The spread included soups, salads, a live cooking station, numerous main courses, and various gluten-free, lactose-free and vegetarian options. Sweets and fruit concluded each delicious meal and somehow, we always found room for one more. Meals also became a continuing education to what the Mediterranean diet is all about – the freshest seasonal produce artfully crafted into the tastiest (and desire to return for more) dishes.
We were tempted by the Veranda Restaurant’s a la carte menu and wine pairings. Still, the buffet dinners were so exceptional we didn’t stray. Just steps away, the Sea View Bar offered refreshing drinks and light snacks by day. In the evening, it transformed into a candlelit terrace, perfect for cocktails and enjoying the kaleidoscope of sunset colors.
Exploring Kassandra
Three days on Kassandra proved insufficient to explore all the peninsula offers. Beyond the picturesque beaches, the region is rich in history, culture and adventure. Activities range from hiking, cycling and watersports, to cooking classes and vineyards.
The beaches, all with crystal clear water, were a highlight. Paliouri Beach’s semi-organized facilities, including the Seazon Beach Club offered a perfect mix of relaxation and convenience. More laid back, Siviri Beach on Kassandra’s west coast featured sun loungers, umbrellas and welcoming beachside tavernas.
Each village in Kassandra has its own charm. Kassandreia, the municipal Center, hosts a lively Farmers Market on Tuesday mornings. A leisurely five-minute walk from our hotel, Afytos, perched on a 250-foot rock, has cobbled streets, stone houses with scent-filled gardens, vibrant tavernas, gift shops, and is car-free during summer evenings. Nea Fokea’s well-preserved Saint Paul’s Byzantine Tower and quaint fishing port are must-sees.
The Tzikas Family Artisan Winery was a memorable experience. This organic vineyard, with about 13,000 vines and 13 grape varietals, half of which are indigenous, has produced high-quality wines for three generations. The wine tasting hosted by Yannis, family patriarch and chief vintner, was inspiring thanks to the quality of his wines and the enthusiasm for the winemaking craft he shared with us. Appointments here are a must.
Potidea Canal, which every visitor must cross to enter the peninsula, is an engineering marvel over 2,000 years old. It is nearly a mile long and has a scenic walkway and ancient ruins. Midway between Thessaloniki and Kassandra, Petralona Cave, with its towering stalactites and stalagmites is another must-visit. This is where the ancient skull of Petralona Man, an ancestor of Neanderthal Man, was found.
Kassandra, the westernmost and most popular of Halkidiki’s three ‘fingers,’ with 110 miles of coastal roads to explore, is a perfect blend of golden beaches, vibrant villages, lively bars and restaurants and serene landscapes, making it an ideal escape for those seeking relaxation and adventure.
Blue Bay Hotel proved to be a perfect home base for our explorations.
